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Catch up on your cooking homework with these must-know recipes.
Now that the kids have headed back to class, why not get a little schooling yourself? That means cooking school, of course! I love to share my tips and tricks and think that these essential recipes are something that every home cook should have in his or her repertoire. This month, why not learn how …
… to make a classic vinaigrette.
Makes about 3/4 cup
The basic oil-and-vinegar dressing is called vinaigrette and is better and cheaper than any version you could buy at the store. The oil can be olive, canola, walnut, grapeseed or even a flavored or infused oil, while the vinegar can be sherry, white wine, red wine, balsamic or even raspberry vinegar or lemon juice. The proportion of acid used in vinaigrette is purely a matter of personal taste.
My favorite recipe consists of 1 part vinegar (or other acid) to 2 parts oil, measured by volume. Any vinaigrette also can be flavored with fresh herbs and minced garlic or shallot. Most recipes call for gradually whisking the oil into the vinegar until the two ingredients are emulsified. This results in a fairly stable vinaigrette, meaning that it will stay combined for a while (though eventually the oil and the vinegar will separate again). But I usually just shake the ingredients in a screw-top jar instead. The dressing won’t stay blended as long, but it simplifies the process.
1 clove garlic or 1 small shallot, minced (optional)
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vinegar
6 tablespoons oil
1. With the flat side of a large chef’s knife, mash garlic and 1/4 teaspoon salt together into a paste.
2. In a small screw-top jar, combine garlic paste, 1 teaspoon mustard, pepper and 2 tablespoons vinegar. (If using shallot, let mixture stand 10 minutes.) Add oil to jar, cover and shake vigorously until oil and vinegar emulsify.
3. Taste and add more salt, vinegar or mustard if you like. Dressing will keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature before using.
Vinaigrette and salad tips
- For salads with toasted nuts and cheese, use walnut or hazelnut oil. Nut oils quickly turn rancid at room temperature, so store them in your refrigerator once you’ve opened them.
- Balsamic vinegar is good for winter salads, such as those with nuts, hearty cheeses and root vegetables.
- Spring salads of tender greens or asparagus can be dressed with a milder vinaigrette that uses champagne vinegar, while a vinaigrette of sherry vinegar pairs beautifully with woodsy sautéed mushrooms.
- Citrus juice can be substituted for the vinegar. If using a sweeter citrus fruit, such as orange, add a bit of lemon juice to give the dressing a tart edge (taste it to make sure there’s enough of a tang). Straight lemon juice is typically milder than vinegar and is often used in a 1-to-1 ratio with the oil.
- Stir in fresh herbs of any kind, or even a teaspoon or two of tapenade, pesto or minced anchovy. A pinch of white or brown sugar also will round out the flavor.
- Double or triple the master recipe — vinaigrette will keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 week. The oil will congeal, so let the dressing come to room temperature. Shake well before using.
- For the best salad, dry your lettuces well. Spin in a salad spinner or dry carefully between towels, or else you will have a bowl of soggy greens.
- Use less dressing than you think you need to help keep the salad crisp. Once you have tossed and tasted, you can always add more.
- Toss well but gently. Use your clean hands — they are your best tools for coating leaves thoroughly without bruising them.
- For tossing, use a bowl at least twice as big as the salad. Plenty of room makes tossing the contents easier.
- For the crispest salad, dress and toss right before serving.
… to make a sauce béchamel.
Makes about 1 quart
There are several varieties of traditional French white sauces (think velouté, ravigote, soubise and cardinal, to name a few), but the best known by far is sauce béchamel. Simply prepared by thickening milk with a white roux (flour and butter), béchamel can be used for vegetable gratins, soups, pasta sauce or as the base for my favorite all-time dish, macaroni and cheese. The recipe can be cut in half for a smaller portion, if desired.
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 tablespoons flour
4 cups whole milk
Coarse salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1. In a medium saucepan, heat the butter over medium-low heat until melted. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Over medium heat, cook until the mixture turns a light, golden sandy color, about 6 to 7 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, heat the milk in a separate pan until just about to boil. Add the hot milk to the butter mixture 1 cup at a time, whisking continuously until very smooth. Bring to a boil. Cook 10 minutes, stirring constantly, then remove from heat. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and set aside until ready to use.
… to make macaroni and cheese.
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Add 4 cups grated white cheddar cheese to the béchamel, stirring until smooth. This actually turns it into a sauce mornay. Toss with 1 pound cooked pasta. Transfer to a baking dish and bake until golden brown and bubbling, about 45 minutes.
… to roast a perfect chicken.
Serves 4 to 6
Large chickens (generally running 6 to 8 pounds and labeled roasters) typically have a deeper, richer and more complex flavor than smaller ones. Young chickens (under 6 pounds and referred to as broilers and fryers) also can be roasted, but by the time the skin is golden and crisp, the breast meat is way overcooked. In fact, everything a roast chicken does well, it does best when bigger. It makes for a more dramatic presentation, serves more people and provides leftovers for sandwiches, soups, salads, pastas and even homemade chicken stock.
One 6- to 8-pound roasting chicken
2 lemons
1 large sprig each fresh rosemary, oregano and thyme
3 cloves garlic, peeled
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup chicken stock
1. Remove giblets from chicken and reserve for another use. Rinse the chicken inside and out with cold water. Pat dry with paper towels.
2. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Fold wing tips under body of chicken. Quarter one of the lemons and squeeze all of the juice into the cavity. Place the lemon pieces, herbs and garlic in the cavity and season with salt and pepper. Tie the legs together with kitchen twine. Sprinkle chicken lightly with salt and pepper and set the chicken on a rack in a roasting pan.
3. Roast until a thermometer inserted through thickest part of breast reaches 170 degrees (or 180 degrees through thickest part of thigh), and any juices from the cavity run clear, 75 to 90 minutes.
4. Carefully lift bird and tilt to drain juices into pan. Set chicken on a rimmed platter and let rest, covered with foil, in a warm place about 10 minutes before carving.
5. Meanwhile, skim and discard fat from pan. Add stock to pan and stir to deglaze any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Reduce the sauce at a simmer until thickened slightly. Stir in juice from remaining lemon, season with salt and pepper and strain into a warmed gravy boat. Carve chicken and serve with juices.
… to make chicken stock.
Put the leftover bones, skin and any meat from a roasted chicken carcass into a large stockpot and cover with cold water. Add 2 stalks chopped celery, 1 chopped onion, 2 chopped carrots and a few sprigs of parsley. Bring to a boil and reduce to barely a simmer. Simmer, uncovered, at least 4 hours, occasionally skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Remove the bones and strain the stock. Season with salt and pepper. Use immediately, or chill completely before freezing in plastic containers for future use.
… to make beef stew.
Serves 6 to 8
Meat is the perfect starting point for a flavorful and satisfying soup or stew. Made all over the world, meat stews are a classic way to use up a seemingly infinite number of ingredients, based on culture and geography. A basic stew consists of cubed meat, flavorful liquid (such as beer, wine or stock) and any number of vegetables. In a stew, the meat is typically browned first and then other ingredients are added and cooked, covered, for a generous amount of time to allow the meat (usually a cheaper and therefore somewhat tougher cut) to tenderize and the flavor to concentrate.
Vegetable oil, for searing
2 1/2 pounds beef stew meat (preferably chuck), cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 medium onions, each cut into 12 wedges
5 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
10 cups cold water or beef broth, homemade or low-sodium canned
6 sprigs parsley
6 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 1/4 pounds medium red potatoes, quartered
3 large carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 28-ounce can whole, peeled tomatoes, lightly crushed with your hands
2 to 3 teaspoons red wine vinegar, or to taste
1. Heat a large Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat. Pour in enough oil to fill the pan about 1/4-inch deep. Season the beef generously with salt and pepper and add to the pan. Sauté half the meat, uncovered, stirring only occasionally, until well browned, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the beef to a plate. Repeat with the remaining beef. Discard the oil and wipe out the pan.
2. Return the pot to the stove and melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 1 minute more. Add the reserved beef, scatter the flour over the vegetable and beef mixture (enough to lightly coat) and cook, stirring, until lightly toasted. Add the water or broth and bring to a simmer. Tie the parsley, thyme and bay leaves together with a piece of kitchen twine and add the bundle to the pot. Season with 2 teaspoons salt. Cover and cook until the meat is just tender, about 1 1/2 hours. (This also can be done in a 325-degree oven.)
3. Uncover and skim any fat from the cooking liquid with a spoon or ladle. Add the potatoes, carrots, celery and tomatoes and bring to a simmer on top of the stove. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the liquid thickens and the vegetables are tender, about 1 hour. Remove and discard the herb bundle. Stir in the vinegar and season with salt and pepper, to taste.
… to make basic yeast dough.
Judy’s honey sandwich bread
Makes 2 loaves
I think everyone should know how to make a basic loaf of bread. The process is so soothing — kneading the dough to an elastic mass; watching the yeast take over, allowing the bread to rise; smelling the savory aroma as the loaf bakes. The process is rather easy, and this dough can be transformed into a myriad of things — classic sandwich loaf, dinner rolls, freeform loaf and flatbread. The easy recipe makes enough dough for two generous loaves — one for now and one to freeze for later. The hard part is waiting the time for the loaves to cool before slicing. But be patient, for fresh-baked bread is definitely worth the wait.
2 envelopes active dry yeast
2 cups warm water (about 100 degrees)
1/4 cup honey or granulated sugar
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon melted unsalted butter, plus more for bowl
2 tablespoons coarse salt
6 to 7 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1. Sprinkle yeast over warm water in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add honey, butter and salt, whisking until yeast is dissolved. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.
2. Add 3 cups flour; mix on low speed until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add 3 more cups flour and mix until incorporated.
3. On a lightly floured surface, knead dough, adding up to 1 cup more flour as needed; knead until smooth, elastic and slightly sticky, about 5 minutes. Transfer dough to a buttered bowl and let rise, covered with plastic wrap, in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes.
4. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Butter two 4 1/2-by-8 1/2-inch loaf pans. Punch down the dough and transfer to a lightly floured surface. Divide dough in half. Gently knead each piece until smooth. Shape each piece into a loaf, tucking sides underneath to form a seam down the middle.
5. Place loaves, seam sides down, in buttered pans. Let rise just until dough reaches tops of pans, 15 to 20 minutes. Brush tops of loaves with butter and bake until golden brown and hollow-sounding when tapped on the bottom (briefly turn out the loaf to test), 35 to 45 minutes. Let cool slightly in pans on wire racks before unmolding. Let cool until just warm before slicing.
