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Despite its colorful past, this green spirit has come into vogue again, but it is not for the faint of heart.
Absinthe has long been regarded as a drink that will make you crazy.
The mystique behind this green beverage, called the “Green Fairy,” “Green Oblivion” and “Green Muse,” still lives on because of its history of alleged hallucinogenic effects.
The vogue-again magical green spirit has a lively history. In the late 1700s, it was used as a medical treatment for the sick and retched.
It was the favorite of drinks among well-known writers, poets and artists, such as Oscar Wilde, Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, Edgar Allan Poe and Vincent Van Gogh.
Absinthe has been associated with the Belle Epoque of bohemian circles of Paris and throughout Europe that existed shortly before World War I. In fact, cocktail hours in Paris became known as “L’Heure Verte” (“the green hour”).
Its colorful past just adds to the allure of absinthe. After being banned in the U.S. in 1912, it was legalized again in 2007* and is wildly popular, particularly in larger markets such as New York City and Los Angeles.
Absinthe is a neutral spirit infused with botanicals, and herb alcohol levels are anywhere from 38 percent to 68 percent.
The important ingredient within is the herb wormwood (artemisia absinthium), from which absinthe acquired its name.
There are essential oils in wormwood that contain the chemical thujone, which is toxic at high levels but not at the low levels found in absinthe.
The main flavor is licorice with a little bitterness. Other ingredients include: star anise, angelica root, fennel, coriander and lemon balm, to name a few.
*Editor’s note: The Food and Drug Administration legalized absinthe in the U.S. as long as it is thujone-free, meaning it contains 10 percent or less of the chemical.
The ritual of serving absinthe is part of its never-ending intrigue. Here’s how to traditionally serve absinthe:
Pour 1 part (1/2 ounce or 1 ounce) absinthe into a glass.
Place a slotted spoon (which comes with La Fee, featured at right, or Grand Absinthe) over the top of a small glass with a sugar cube on top of the spoon.
Drizzle 4 to 5 parts cold water over the sugar cube into the glass.
As the water hits the spirit, it becomes an opalescent white and cloudy with a hint of green. This effect is called the louche (pronounced “loosh”) and occurs when the essential oils are not able to disperse in the water. It is this louche that makes absinthe so unusual.
Sips at home
NV Absinthe Verte — $22.99
Great on the rocks, over ice or, as suggested by the La Fee company, in an energy drink or in a mojito. This is an affordable absinthe and perfect for the party scene. The NV, with its 38 percent lower alcohol (than the La Fee), means it can be used without the sugar cube or the spoon. For a fun party drink, here’s your ticket.
La Fee Absinthe Parisienne — $62.49
Here is the big gun when it comes to sophisticated decadence in high-end absinthe. La Fee is at the forefront of the absinthe renaissance, but ... caution!
Proceed tenderly because of the higher 68 percent alcohol level. This is made following an authentic 19th century recipe and was developed in conjunction with world-famous absinthe expert Marie-Claude Delahaye.
Enjoy the tradition and ritual of using the sugar cube and cold water to get the louche effect. This is cool beyond belief.
Wine columnist Randa Warren is a Certified Master Sommelier; Certified Wine Educator; has earned a Diploma of Wine and Spirits, granted through the Wine and Spirit Education Trust in England; and is a Certified Specialist of Spirits.
