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In its PRHYME

Justin Thompson’s upscale steakhouse classes up downtown’s beef offerings.

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The bone marrow “canoe” is filled with spreadable, roasted marrow topped with capers and red onion, and served with toast and sliced bread.Roasted marrowbones are one of my favorite dishes. I didn’t share.

Other starters include a traditional beef tartare ($16.50), buttermilk-fried escargot with herbed lemon aioli ($14.95) and oysters served with a cocktail sauce and horseradish slaw ($18.95). The caviar service features American paddlefish, American white sturgeon and golden osetra ($65, $95 and $145).

I did share, however, the PRHYME Chop Salad (a take on the classic Cobb and chop salads), which includes grape tomato, red onion, cucumber, blue cheese, bacon, egg and red wine vinaigrette ($8.95). It was a nice palate cleanser after the rich marrow, and before the meaty steak to come. Four other salads and three soup selections round out the menu’s starters.

As far as entrées are concerned, steaks are served à la carte, while seafood, poultry and chops are served with a side chosen to complement the protein. Steaks come with no accoutrements, and side dishes are served family-style, perfect for sharing. I knew my husband would order the grass-fed tenderloin, so I opted for a wet-aged rib-eye, just so we could compare notes — and I always order the rib-eye. Both of our steaks arrived cooked to perfection.

The 8-ounce tenderloin ($34.95), which I often consider to be a boring, lean cut, was extremely tender and surprisingly flavorful. I probably could have cut my 16-ounce rib-eye ($47.50) with a fork, but opted for the steak knife. A 12-ounce tenderloin and 14-ounce New York strip also are available under the grass-fed and wet-aged selections. Sauce selections are available upon request, and include béarnaise, veal demi-glace, peppercorn cream, blue cheese cream and PRHYME Steak Sauce.

If you desire something besides a steak, PRHYME offers Australian lamb chops; a grilled, 14-day dry-aged, bone-in pork chop; and a veal loin chop. There are a handful of poultry and seafood selections, as well.

As a companion to our steaks, we chose brown butter-roasted Brussels sprouts, topped with crisp bacon and a platter of thick onion rings served with PRHYME Steak Sauce. Other sides include sweet corn maque choux (a traditional southern Louisiana dish with corn, green peppers and celery), garlic smashed red potatoes and sautéed seasonal mushrooms.

All of the half-dozen desserts are made in house. We felt chocolate was in order and enjoyed the PRHYME Chocolate Pie, a rich concoction with an Oreo cookie crust, dark chocolate mousse, chocolate crumbles and a dollop of chocolate whipped cream. Other choices include New York-style cheesecake, carrot cake and a popular Bourbon-vanilla bean crème brûlée.

When I mentioned the exceptional waitstaff to Thompson, he said, “We are going the extra mile when it comes to food … the same goes for service. We strive to be the best in Tulsa.” Servers are tested weekly on a variety of topics — wine, service and food knowledge.

PRHYME boasts a generous offering of 250 wine labels (a number that Thompson hopes to bring to 300 by summer) that have been carefully cultivated by Joe Breaux, certified sommelier and beverage director. The selection features around two dozen wines by the glass and a scattering of 375ml bottles. Select from a handful of boutique brews on tap, as well as more than a dozen bottled selections. And don’t forget Breaux’s creative cocktails.

The week after we visited, Thompson rolled out a new bar menu, which features three types of burgers and a few other dishes.

“I wanted customers to be able to ‘go big’ or eat modestly,” he said, “with the same great level of service.”

The menu is only available in the bar, but diners in the bar area also can enjoy the full dinner menu.

I asked Thompson how he was managing his time between the two restaurants, implying that he might be working some long days.

“It’s been fun,” he hinted. “Their identities are so different. Juniper is fun and casual, lively and imaginative, while PRHYME is elegant and formal, and the food is about consistency and perfection.

“I like what I do,” he added. “I’m pretty lucky.”

And in my opinion, so is Tulsa.

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