TulsaPeople / July 2010 / Go bold

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Go bold

Boulder Grill, the new restaurant at the downtown Holiday Inn, is most definitely bolder than your average chain-hotel spot.

I had a strange sense when we entered the glass doors at 17 W. Seventh St. downtown — a sense that we might be in the wrong place. My husband, Tate, and I were heading out to grab a quick dinner, and we arrived at a modern, urban-inspired street-level café on the edge of downtown. We thought we were headed to the Holiday Inn and realized, strangely enough, we were there. Only this isn’t your parents’ Holiday Inn. After receiving a $10 million renovation (including all 220 rooms) with a thoroughly modern look, this appeared like anything but a chain hotel.

The restaurant was relocated to the first floor from the second, gaining a heap of patio seating, making this a new downtown destination for lunch as well as cocktails and dinner.

Rusty orange walls flank the generous dining space, which surrounds a wide-open bar with access to the patio through a string of glass doors. Black leather chairs with black wooden tables give the café a modern, upscale feel, especially with an assortment of lime-green floor tiles, while the menu keeps it casual but interesting.

Almost two dozen small plates serve as starters or as a mix-and-match dinner. We just couldn’t pass up the homemade tater tots, made with starchy russet potatoes and earthy truffle oil. Smoother than your typical Ore-Ida tot, these fried nuggets were light as air and more like a croquette — delicious!

Because I love a bit of variety at the table, I decided to go with a few more of the small plates as my meal. The mac and cheese ($6) was creamy and rich and had the crusty baked edges that I love from baked pasta dishes. Topped with a crispy Parmesan and breadcrumb topping, it would have served nicely as a meal, paired with a salad. We also nibbled on sweet corn tamale cakes ($7), three dense yet creamy masa-based “cake” rounds, layered with avocado and resting on a bed of roasted red pepper sauce — yet another dish that would serve nicely as a meal. I finished off with a small version of the sweet and savory Strawberry Fields Salad ($5) — one of three salads on the menu — which included field greens tossed with strawberries, pistachios, honey-lemon almonds, red onions, feta cheese and a tangy chipotle-honey vinaigrette.

Tate selected a heartier second course — a bacon avocado burger ($10), one of 10 burger offerings. The 8-ounce, thick and freshly ground patty was cooked perfectly, served with smoky bacon and creamy avocado. Other sandwich offerings include fish tacos, grilled lamb kofta (meatballs) and Manchego grilled cheese (all sandwiches, $9); all come with your choice of fries, sweet potato fries, soup or field greens.

Most of the entrées (about half served after 5 p.m. only) are larger versions of small-plate offerings ($11 to $22) but also include braised short ribs ($19), potato-crusted salmon ($18) and a char-grilled rib eye steak topped with Gorgonzola sauce ($22).

The dessert selection offers a few interesting options (all $5). We loved the apple wonton dumplings — miniature fried apple and cinnamon dumplings served with a rich mascarpone dipping sauce. Others include a peach slump (sort of an old-fashioned cobbler), chocolate tart and a modern version of s’mores (melted Belgian chocolate with toasted marshmallows and Belgian graham cookies).

The bar features a dozen wines by the glass ($5 to $10) and almost two dozen bottle selections ($15 to $39). If beer is your thing, try one of the “beer cocktails” ($5 each), including the Michelada — beer with Bloody Mary mix. Martinis and other specialty cocktails ($5.50 to $8) round out the drink menu.

Stop in for happy hour daily between 4 and 6 p.m., when all small plates are half-price.

Boulder Grill

17 W. Seventh St., 585-5898
www.thebouldergrill.com

• Cuisine — Modern American
• Setting — Holiday Inn City Center
• Restaurant managers — Colette Walker, T.J. Dunivan
• Chef — Matt Sternke
• Prices — Small plates, $5-$8;
• sandwiches and burgers, $8-$10; entrées, $11-$22
• Reservations — Recommended for dinner, same day only
• Credit cards — All major accepted
• Hours — Breakfast: 6:30-9:30 a.m., Monday-Friday; 7-10 a.m., Saturday-Sunday; lunch and dinner: 11 a.m.-10 p.m., daily
• Dress — Business casual
• Noise level — Low to moderate
• Parking — Hotel parking garage or street