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Asparagus, eggs and a not-so-soggy salad.
In season
Nothing says spring like a bunch of tender asparagus stalks, which are at their sweet, earthy best from April to June. This elegant, simple and surprisingly versatile vegetable can be prepared in a myriad of ways — grilled, sautéed, steamed — and goes perfectly with any spring dinner. I even eat them for breakfast with poached eggs and hollandaise — a crisp stalk is the perfect vehicle for smearing.
- At the market, look for firm spears — whether thick or thin — with compact heads and tight scales. Thick spears are just as tender as thin ones.
- Green and white asparagus are the same variety — the white is grown under packed soil guarded from any sunlight.
- Asparagus deteriorates rather quickly, so don’t keep it in the fridge for too long — it’s best when eaten within a few days.
- Remove the tough ends just before cooking — they should snap off naturally an inch or two from the base.
- Wrap prosciutto around blanched spears (spears that have been cooked in boiling water until tender — about 2 minutes — then refreshed in a bowl of ice water) and roast until the prosciutto is crispy.
- Chop blanched asparagus and add to your favorite quiche or fritatta recipe.
- Toss spaghetti with fresh ricotta, chopped and sautéed spears, finely grated Parmesan cheese and grated lemon zest.
Poached eggs
As I mentioned above, I love to eat asparagus spears — whether grilled, sautéed or steamed — topped with a poached egg for breakfast. Eggs and asparagus just seem to go well together. I like to use the spears for dipping into the gorgeous, runny yolk.
However, a lot of people have mentioned to me that they can’t seem to poach an egg successfully. While the first few eggs I poached probably didn’t come out photo worthy, I have discovered over the years that a few simple techniques will help anyone poach beautifully.
- Use the freshest eggs you can get a hold of — a trip to the farmers’ market is worthwhile. The fresher the egg, the sturdier the yolk membrane — that’s what keeps the yolk together — and the thicker the white.
- A little acid in the cooking water helps the whites set faster. I like to add a teaspoon or so of white vinegar.
For a perfectly poached egg, have a pot of gently simmering water on the stove — no more than 3 inches deep. Break one fresh egg into a small bowl or cup. Gently slide the egg into the water and repeat with any remaining eggs, dropping them in clockwise. Gently fold any straggly whites back over the egg with a slotted spoon. Let the eggs simmer ever so gently until they are cooked to desired hardness, removing them in the order they were dropped in. You can poach eggs ahead of time and hold them in cold water. To serve, reheat them in a pot of hot (not boiling) water.
During my last visit to New Orleans, I saw (yes, saw, not ate!) the most amazing poached egg ever at the table next to us at Herbsaint. Not only was it poached, but it was also dredged in flour, egg and breadcrumbs and deep fried. Nestled atop a mound of creamed spinach, it was the most mouthwatering thing I have ever seen and it immediately made me regret what I had ordered. Once I figure out how to pull that one off, I will share the details.
Spare that salad from sogginess
With picnic season just around the corner, I’ve been trying to think of ways to be better prepared. I hate opening that basket to wilted greens and soggy sandwiches. Here’s a trick that I’ve found for keeping those picnic salads fresh and crisp up until the time you squat on that blanket and kick off your shoes. Pack each ingredient, and the dressing, separately into zip-top plastic bags. Better than plastic containers because they are less bulky, as well as disposable, these keep all of your salad ingredients crisp and clean until you toss them together at your arrival.
Great tools
What is the secret to achieving paper-thin slices of vegetables, perfectly julienned carrots and intricately waffled potato chips? A mandoline is the chef’s secret weapon in the kitchen. This handy tool — basically a plastic or metal ramp with a blade situated in the middle — comes with interchangeable blades of varying widths and styles, including crinkle cut, julienne, waffle cut and the straight slice. The blades are extremely sharp — I’ve taken off my share of fingertips using one — so use care when slicing. Always use the included safety guard.
To use a mandoline, simply press the safety guard into the fruit or vegetable you desire to cut and slide it across the blade in a downward motion. Plastic models are available at most kitchenware stores for $20 to $40. Professional stainless-steel versions run the gamut from $50 to $150, depending on the amount of attachments included.
